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Best Cinnamon Raisin Sourdough Recipe
March 28th, 2022 | View Post

Make sure that the starter is super bubbly
Having made dozens of near perfect sourdoughs at this point and having experimented with a variety of my own recipes for the perfect cinnamon raisin variety, I believe I have found the one that I'll stick with. It should be noted right off the bat that because cinnamon naturally inhibits the work of yeast in the proofing dough, many recipes call for adding additional yeast into the dough. I've actually found that this is unnecessary and merely requires letting the dough proof a bit longer than it normally might. Given the temperature of my own house, most sourdough will proof for me in about 8 hours time. This one takes closer to 12 hours, but comes out perfect every time.

I've also experimented with combinations of flour (between white, whole wheat, and rye) and have actually found that just using 100% bread flour works the best.

Build your starter however you normally do, but just make sure that the starter is super gaseous before you actually use it for the bread. It should float like a cork when you mix it with water.

The Recipe

In a large wooden mixing bowl add:
  • 520g white bread flour
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 2.5 tablespoons of ground cinnamon
  • 110g raisins (no need to pre-soak them)
  • 40g raw sugar
Mix the dry ingredients before you add the starter so that they're evenly distributed.

In a measuring cup (or similar container) stir:
  • 90g starter
  • 385g water
Use a fork to mix 90g of your starter in 385g of water. Then pour the mixture into the bowl. Stir it up like you normally would for any other sourdough until it has a good doughy consistency. If it seems overly dry, add another tablespoon of water before starting the proofing process.

The dry mixture before stirring it up

Proofing and Folding

I use two initial folds 15 minutes apart and then two final post-proof folds.

Once the dough has been made, let it sit for 15 minutes and be sure to cover it with a damp cloth. After 15 minutes, do your initial folding, being sure to turn the bowl 90 degrees before each of the 4 folds. Once done, cover it with the damp cloth and let it sit another 15 minutes. After another 15 minutes passes (30 minutes from start), repeat the same folding process. Again, cover with a damp cloth and now let it sit for 12 hours.

After 12 hours, the dough should have risen to a satisfactory level and with any luck, you'll even find some gas bubbles trapped at the top of the dough. Perform the post-proofing folding the first time and replace the dough back into the mixing bowl. Turn the bowl 90 degrees and after this fold, place it into a metal bowl lined with parchment paper.

The final product
Sprinkle cinnamon, sugar, and white flour atop the dough and place it in the refrigerator for an hour. While it's cooling, set your oven to bake at 500 degrees and place your dutch oven inside. After an hour, remove the dough from the fridge and use your lame to make the top cut. Remove the dutch oven from the oven, move the chilled dough into the dutch oven (I always add plenty of parchment paper so that I can just pick it up like handles) and place it into the dutch oven. Put the dutch oven back into your oven with the lid on.

Bake for 21 minutes with the lid on, then remove the lid. Bake for another 11 minutes.

Updating the Database
February 12th, 2022 | View Post
As a small technical note for my blog, I've been busy writing a ton of code to fix some of the issues that have recently come up. I'd been working on this over the past several months, but took a bit of a break in January while tending to other things. I've written about this rather extensively before, but most of the problems stem from Apple stupidly reorganizing the way they store photos within the iPhoto app.

While they used to keep a tight directory structure on your photos disk (making it extremely easy to RSync to one's personal server), they are now using some kind of hex-based directory structure and simply add all of the photos into these folders using $0 through $F (eg: ~/0/, ~/1/, ... ~/F/). Worse still is that they include the photos in the directories seemingly at random.

This makes it extremely difficult to find your new files and move them where they need to go. Yes, you can use the export feature, but this is SUCH a slow process and makes absolutely no sense for storing your own photos on your own system. It's absolutely bonkers that they've adopted this new structure.

Of course this is all in line with Apple taking the blue ribbon for "most evil tech company". They're quite clearly doing this to make it more and more difficult for people to use software outside of the Apple realm thus ensuring that people stick with iPhoto (and much more insidiously, their Cloud services). I've been writing about this for nearly 20 years now and this is just the latest example of it.

This required me writing code that would look at the MD5 checksum for every single file and then compare those to the files that I already had on my server. The ones that were missing were copied into one of the new directories and processed.

I still have a ton of photos needing to be sorted, but it's coming along in my spare time.
Clearing Claire's Land
February 8th, 2022 | View Post

The Husqvarna Chainsaw and accessories I purchased
My dear friend Claire purchased a sizable piece of property in the general Asheville, North Carolina area about a year ago. I had been wanting to visit her for awhile and unfortunately wound up canceling a few potential visits with her towards the end of 2021. So I thought I'd make the drive out her way and spend a few days with her. A few days turned into a week and a week turned into three weeks. It's a beautiful area.

Since I always love having a good project that I can work on - this is generally how I thrive the most - I asked her if there was anything at her house that she needed done. She explained to me how she wanted to clear out all of the smaller trees in the forest next to her house so that it was walkable and so that the larger trees would continue to thrive. Unfortunately, she mentioned how she only had a small electric chainsaw.

Since I hadn't gotten her any kind of house-warming present, I drove over to the local Tractor Supply Company and purchased her a nice 14" Husqvarna Chainsaw. I also had to pickup a gas can, some oil, and a few chains.

I'd basically spend the mornings cutting down trees with the chainsaw, lopping off the smaller branches, and then either cutting the trunk into firewood logs or dragging the trunk (in the case of smaller trees) up the hillside to our giant pile.

Cutting down one of the trees in the forest

Over the course of about 3 weeks, I wound up cutting down somewhere between 250 and 300 trees. I referred to this as "chainsaw therapy". We had a massive snowstorm come through sometime during my visit with her. This cut into my morning therapy sessions, but as soon as the snow cleared, I got right back to it.

The massive firewood pile that I wound up creating for Claire.

In cutting down all of the trees, I wound up creating five massive brush piles. While this is to be expected, we still needed to get rid of them. Her friends Geoff and Ashleigh came over one afternoon just as I had started burning off some of the brush. Everybody wound up chipping in and helped me drag literally thousands of branches to our massive brush fire.

While we didn't burn off everything (namely as we'd have needed a few more hours and we had a birthday party to plan for), we got three of the giant brush piles entirely removed.

Geoff helping me to burn off some of the extra brush

Standing in front of the ember pile the next morning

Finally, and just before I wound up leaving, there was another giant snowfall. It was spectacular seeing the snow cover the area that I had just cleared out. It entirely changed the look and feel of her property. I'm going to head back there in a few weeks and work on cutting out some hiking paths. I'm told I need to get there before all of the giant forest spiders start coming back out. I'm not a fan of spiders.

The cleared forest after the snowfall

Why PropB Won't Fix our Homeless Camps
April 16th, 2021 | View Post
If you're wondering how to vote on Austin's PropB this May, I can't help you with that. But if you're wanting to get a deeper perspective as to why the homeless camps have continued to run as they have, then look no further.

Using C-Channels to Construct a Steel and Cedar Fence
April 8th, 2021 | View Post

This is a new method that I came up with for building a Steel and Cedar fence using stainless steel C-Channels in place of other methods like angle iron.

A section of the fence shortly after completion

One of the difficulties of building a steel and cedar fence is the process of physically adhering the cedar pickets to the steel itself. While this might not be immediately obvious at first, the mechanics behind it actually create quite a lot of work for anybody building this type of fence.

The typical method used is to weld angle iron pieces to the vertical posts. They are positioned on the inner tracts of each section and allow various types of backing boards to be screwed onto them. These backing boards can then be used to affix the cedar planks.

I came up with a new method for accomplishing this same process by using Stainless Steel C-Channels. The channels allow for standard pressure treated 1x4s to be slid into the channel slots. These are then used to affix the cedar just as in the standard method.

Here's a detailed video of how I made this work. Full textual instructions can be found below that.

Acquiring C-Channels

Once I came up with a proof of concept for the work, the first challenge was just acquiring all of the C-Channels. I found what I needed at Home Depot, but I thought surely my local metal distributor would have these at a better price and quite possibly in longer segments.

It turns out that I was mistaken.

My local steel company sold C-Channels too, but unfortunately they were quite different from what I actually needed. If you look at the two of them side-by-side, you can see that one of them has angled edges. The reason for this is how they manufacturer them.

Two different types of C-Channels, one with straight walls that I found at Home Depot and one with angled walls that I found at my usual metal distributor

The C-Channel on the right (which I'm told is called "pig iron") is actually manufactured in the forge. They start with a solid brick of steel and then use a press to carve out the channel. The problem is that excess steel has to go somewhere and so it's left behind in the channel. That's what forms the angled grooves.

Some of the C-Channels I acquired at Home Depot just before cutting them

By contrast, the C-Channel on the left is made from an existing piece of flattened stainless steel. They use a machine to bend the two sides of it. This creates the channel with the straight walls. This is an important distinction for the method that I came up with and these types of C-Channels are required for the process to work properly.

Once I had all of the C-Channels that I needed, I laid out half of them on a ladder next to me and started on the process of preparing them.

Jig to Cut the C-Channels

Given that Home Depot only sells the stainless steel C-Channels in 36” pieces, I needed make literally hundreds of cuts for the 3-1/2" pieces that would be useful on the fence. To ensure they were done with relative precision, I built a simple jig out of some scrap wood.

The jig was designed so that the C-Channel could be slid into a groove with walls on either side locking it firmly into place. The outermost edge had a wall that would stop it from being inserted any farther into the jig. In order to get the proper cut, the C-Channel had to abut this outer wall. I left a several inch wide gap in the two side walls. The 3-1/2" cutline that I needed was where the gap first started. So in other words, so long as I cut the C-Channel as close to that edge as possible, the resulting piece would be sufficient for what I needed (with a precision of maybe +/- ¼").

The jig I built for cutting the 36" C-Channels into 3-1/2" pieces

It took about three hours for me to cut all of the pieces that I needed. It should be noted that safety equipment is of the utmost importance here. In addition to always needing safety gear when working with a grinder and cutting steel, the sheer volume of the material being cut produced an unbelievable amount of metal dust and shavings. For that reason alone, I would strongly advise wearing a breather as well as an apron.

Metal dust and shavings are incredibly difficult to get out your clothing. What's worse is that because so many of our modern conveniences rely on strong magnets (your phone, for example), the tiny shards of metal will get stuck to everything and are very difficult to remove.

A view of the jig I used after cutting hundreds of C-Channels

Some of the metal dust that resulted from the massive amounts of cuts made

The Homer work bucket filled with 3-1/2" C-Channel pieces

After each cut, I'd just toss the 3-1/2" C-Channel into a Homer work bucket. The bucket eventually became extremely heavy, but not so much that I couldn't move it around. It provided an easy way to move them to each fence section as we worked on welding them into place.

Welding the C-Channels

Welding the C-Channels into place wasn't especially difficult, but it did require some reasonable welding skills. Admittedly, they don't require a lot of welding to secure them to the frames, but rather can be adhered with just a few well-positioned tacks. We found that placing a tack on the underbelly of each C-Channel as well two tacks on the outer portion of each one worked just fine.

One of the C-Channels tacked into place. The board in this photo is a standard 1x4 untreated common board. This was used as a test, but only pressure-treated wood was used for the final product

Assuming each fence section is 8 feet wide, you should plan on having 3 pairs of C-Channels per fence section. One pair on each of the outermost parts of the section and then one pair dead center.

If you have any sections of fence that exceed 8 feet in width, you might consider using 4 pairs of C-Channels for such a section. In that case, use two pairs on the outermost posts of the section and then space two more pairs equally within the section itself. Keep in mind that if you do this, you’ll want to divide the width of the fence section by THREE and not by four. The reason is because you need to use the number of gaps required (3) for the math and not the number of channel pairings (4).

Once you have all of the C-Channels welded into place, you'll want to paint them. For a black fence, I'd recommend using Rustoleum Black Gloss paint. You can use a brush if you prefer, but I found the spray was much easier for painting the C-Channels given their irregular shape and how small they are. Still though, this is entirely a preference.

At this point you'll be ready to start attaching the 1x4 backing boards. These should be pressure treated boards and you'll want to make sure that you spend time carefully choosing the boards to ensure minimal warping. Horizontal warping is especially problematic with this method given the boards will need to be properly fit between each pair of channels. You'll want them to be as straight as possible.

Pallet of pressure-treated "Yellawood" 1x4s at Home Depot

I found that cutting all of the backing boards was probably the most labor intensive part of the entire job. Because of the unusual shape of the C-Channels, it can be difficult to properly measure the height that you need. Ideally you would run the tape measure from the floor of the lower C-Channel to the ceiling of the upper C-Channel. However, given that each C-Channel is just ?" thick, you can simply measure the distance between the two horizontal steel tubes and then subtract ¼" from the total required height. This is what I found easiest.

I also tended to err on the longer side of my measurements as I needed to ensure that each backing board was snugly fit into place. Consequently, I would measure the distance needed and then subtract just under ¼" from the measurement before making the cut. This would usually result in the board being slightly too long to fit inside of the C-Channel pairing. I would simply set the bottom part of the 1x4 in the lower channel and then see how close it was to fitting inside of the upper channel. Once I could see how much was left to cut, I could usually eyeball it from there and make very small adjustments. While this took a lot of additional time, I wanted to ensure I got the height of the 1x4 as perfectly fit as I could. This would occasionally mean I had to make 3 or 4 cuts on the same piece of wood, but I think the results speak for themselves in terms of the precision that I ended up with.

A section of the fence with three backing boards and a single cedar picket held onto the bottom.
This was still testing the proof of concept

I should also note that just because the left side of your fence section measures some height does not mean that the right side will have an equal height. While you should have certainly used a level when installing the horizontal tubing, it's very possible that there will still be a slight angle to the tube resulting in one side being slightly higher or lower than the other. While this isn't generally perceptible to the eye (provided you indeed used a level), it makes a significant difference fitting the 1x4s given the precision required to slide them into the channels.

The backing boards should fit perfectly into place between each pair of the C-Channels. While you don’t want them to be loose in any way, you also shouldn’t require a great deal of force to knock them into place. I found that they worked best when they required a gently tapping from my hand or a mallet.

But that's basically it. Once all of the backing boards are in place, you can proceed with installing the cedar pickets as you normally would. Cut them to width and then screw them into the backing boards.

Various sections of the fence with the backing boards exposed

Attach the Cedar Pickets

Assuming that you're using 1x6 cedar pickets and paired with the 1x4s, this means that the total amount of usable wood depth should be 1-½". I used Spax #8 1-¼" decking screws for the job. This ensured that none of them would penetrate the 1-½" of depth. The brand is generally very well-received for these kinds of jobs.

The boxes of Spax screws required to affix all of the cedar pickets

If you have any questions about how to apply this method, please feel free to contact me!

Working on cutting and affixing the cedar pickets to one side of the fence

Me, after getting the first few sections of fencing finished after weeks of hard work

Fixing my Wooden Cutting Board
August 14th, 2019 | View Post
For some reason or another someone must have put my favorite wooden cutting board into the dishwasher last week. I'm not really sure how that happened, but I mustn't have realized it was in there when I ran the dishwasher. I guess the extra hot water didn't sit well with the wood and so it broke about a third of it off at one of the original seams.

I decided on a whim a couple of nights ago to break out the carpenter's glue and some wood clamps. I applied it to both sides of the wood along the break line, smoothed the glue out, and placed the pieces together as perfectly aligned as I could. I then wrapped some paper towels along the glue line and clamped everything together. Unfortunately my wood clamps were not quite wide enough to clamp it in the direction of the break. I could have rigged up some kind of jig, but was feeling a little lazy and so instead I just clamped it to hold in position and then applied some weight at the top (using 3 different hammers) to pull the pieces together with the help of gravity.

The video picks up the next day after the glue had dried.